Progress

Day One 21st May Penzance to Land's End and back. milage: 22.7 avg sp: 11.5

Sitting on the London to Penzance fast train (5hrs) and watching all the hills roll past the butterflies started. It struck me what a manmoth task lay ahead. I can't wait to get on the bike and make a start although the real cycling doesn't start until tomorrow. So we arrive in Penzance & set off for Land's End straight away. Reach Land's End in quick time get photos taken at the sign. Register for the end to end club & have a celebratory pint in the Land's End hotel. Take the scenic route back & our troubles begin early. Mark's rear cassette buckles on the first serious climb he looses his bottom 3 gears and tomorrow will begin with a search for a bike shop! Booking into the YHA Richard managed to drop, and break, his cycle computer. So we will both have something to do in the bike shop.

Day Two 22nd May Penzance to Launceston. milage: 87.9 avg sp: 11.8

OK so today could only get better, couldn't it? Cooked breakfast at the YHA @ 7:30 in the hope the Penzance bike shop opens @ 8:30. It opens @ 9:00. They didn't have the right cassette but phoned ahead to Readruth who confirmed they had the right thing and would fit it. Meanwhile Richard gets his hair cut. Short. Really short. So we press on to Redruth about 20 miles and get there for 11:00 sampling a few of the local hills on the way. We cycle up a huge hill (off route) to the bike shop. Bike Chain was a large well stocked shop with friendly, knowledgable staff. Mark straight away sorted his gears while Richard enquired about a new computer no luck there. Richard also asked about a wobble he had been experienced on downhills. As the chap felt his handlebars the concern was plain to see. 2nd and 3rd opinions were sought before they broke the news that the fork was due to colapse any second. For non cyclist s this is VERY bad - life threatening. The shop to their infinite credit got on with a replacement. By 2:15 we were back on the road. 3hrs lost - but safe working bikes and lighter wallets. About 50 miles to go not too bad. And then the hills really start. Newquay to Padstow is a killer. Hill after valley again and again all with massive hairpin bends to rob you of any speed you might have gained just before the heart stoppingly steep climb. Eventually we reach Padstow where we join the 8 mile Camel trail to Wadebridge. This is totally flat and offered fabulous relief to our tired legs. From here we flew along the main road eating up the 1st 7 miles to Camelford. Then the 3 mile climb started. It seemed to go on for ever and ever. But the chip shop at Camelford made it all worth while. We finally reached our B&B 21 miles further than we thought at 9:30PM. Shattered. It wasn't all bad however - the sun shone all day, the wind was light and rarely in our face. And we finished believing that if we could get through a day this fraught with problems, hold ups and tough cycling we can certainly finish the trip.

Day Three 23nd May Launceston to Taunton milage: 81 avg sp: 11.2

Devon in a day! That sums it up. Started in Cornwall entered Devon @ 9:30 and rolled into Somerset around 6:30. In between we went up and down and up and down ad infinitum. Other than being exhausted and being welcomed at the youth hostel with the line ' Oh - I was expecting you to call most people who book don't make it.' which was strangly encouraging - the day was short on event. Which is only really the case because of the previous day's adventure. It was again stunning weather.

Day Four 24th May Taunton to Chepstow milage: 84 avg sp: 12.4

After 2 days of relentless hills we needed a break - so thank goodness for the Somerset flats. We were joined by a friend James who was useful all day as a wind break! Whizzing through towns like North Curry & Ham Richard's appitite hit a new high and by 11:30 we had done 35 miles and it was time for the first full meal. After another 10 miles James, being a local boy, exhibited excellent local knowledge by taking us to Rose Farm nr Mugeley for cheese and cider. We then pressed on to Cheddar Gorge, at the bottom of which we bought some bread & pickle and ate our recently aquired cheese. Then what we thought would be the toughest climb of the day up the gorge began. After a steep 1st quater of a mile it flattened out enough to allow us to drift up just spinning the pedals in a low gear. After this we pressed on to Bristol with more ups and downs. Most notably at Chew Stoke where 2 really taxing hills made for a nasty mid afternoon change of pace.. Bristol came next with a vile slog through the centre. Eventually the 2 Severn bridges were in sight and a mile over the bridge left us a 2 mile roll down to our hotel. Met with wives and siblings and a short return to normality.

Day Five 25th May Chepstow to Ironbridge milage: 100.2 avg sp: 11.9

Waking up this morning we knew we had done some cycling. Everything ached. We knew we had a long day ahead. By the time we had cleared out of our hotel and said goodbye and were ready to go it was 11:00am. We took the A48 out of Chepstow which is noisy, fast, and pretty hilly. By the time we turned North towards Tewksbury we were glad to be rid of it. We made good progress throuqh the morning and early afternoon stopping properly for the first time at 3:00pm in between Tewksbury and Upton for some lunch. We the pressed hard for Woscester reaching the centre by 17:00. By this time we were both pretty demoralised. We had cycled hard all day and it looked from the map like we were half way only! Again we pushed hard and reached Bewdley by 19:30, where we had chips and a pint of Mild. This really got our spirits up and we climbed up into the Wye Forest with fresh vigor despite the in progress surfacing providing a lousy cyclinq surface. The sharp ups and careering downs of the Wye were a sign of thinqs to come for the last 20 miles. Finally we dropped into Ironbridge at 21:45. A quick trip to a pub where Mark's parent's, wife and in laws met us and kindly bought us some food was followed by a very sound nights sleep. Hopefully the bodily niggles will have disapeared by the morning.

Day Six 26th May Ironbridge to Standish milage: 91 avg sp: 12.0

Fifth day of big cycling. Having felt pretty poor at the start and especially the end of the previous day today was physcologically important. Mark was a little worried about the potential length of the day given the strain he had put on his knee so far. After the obligatory photo on the Iron bridge we began the climb out of the valley. What a warm up. If that had continued for the day there was no hope. However once out of Ironbridge the day proved mercifully flat. It was an ascent before this that we met Gerald. Our 1st encounter with a fellow end to ender. A very endearing chap in his 60s from Lancs who liked 'to potter along with his head over the hedgerows taking it all in'. He was riding one of the heaviest looking shoppers I have ever seen with 5 sturmey archer gears. He had set off the previous Tuesday and was being supported by his son. He seemed very determined and from the steely look in his eye as he flew off down the hill at 35mph leaving us utterly in his wake I have no doubt he will make it. With slightly worse weather than previous days (cold & cloudy) we made good progress through the day stopping only a couple of times. We arrived in Standish just after 7:30pm another 90 miles under the belts. Tomorrow the distances drop but the mountains begin... I'll let you know!

Day Seven 27th May Standish to Sedbergh milage: 71 avg sp: 11.9

At last! a day's milage which was reminiscent of that which we had planned. Ian & Kates warm hospitality in Standish ended as they left for work the consequence of which was a nice early start. If you ever fancy an easy morning cycle go from Standish to Preston. Without seeming to have turned the pedals there we were. After Bristol & Warrington we were used to hacking our way through town centres and Preston was mercifully quick. The extra bonus was passing a shop where Richard replaced his broken cycle computer. Hooray! At 11:30 we stopped for fish & chips at Woodplumpton (lovely name). With the wind in our backs we flew on towards Lancaster. Making such good time we thought we would veer off route and check out a lighthouse at Glasson. The ice cream van prevented us getting that far. Whilst eating our refreshment a fellow cyclist pointed out a cycle path to us which took us direct & flat into Lancaster along the river lune. What a bonus. Then the first real hills began climbing out of Lancaster in land towards the Yorkshire Dales and the Pennines. However the sun beating down & the spectacular scenery insipired us and by 4:00pm we were sipping coffee & eating scones in Kirkby Lonsdale knowing we had less than 10 miles to go. We arrived in Sedburgh at 5:30 feeling relaxed and refreshed after what had seemed an easy days cycling. Confidence is growing now and the legs seem to be feeling more & more normal each day. I susspect we are cycling ourselves fit but the mountains start for proper tomorrow with the Garsdale Pass for breakfast so we shall see.

Day Eight 28th May Sedbergh to Carlisle milage: 60 avg sp: 11.7

Another early start, on the road by 8:45 we had decided to go slightly off the planned route to take a longer but shallower way up Garsdale. The 10 mile climb seemed to go without effort. A sideways wind helped the effort and before we knew it we were flying down the hill (big wide empty road - touching 40mph) into Kirkby Stephen. We had a quick stop but as it was still early pressed on to Appleby for Lunch. After the usual intake of loads of food we set off again feeling the first spots of rain of the trip. By the time we got to Melmerby it was raining for real and the pub in the village seemed to good an opportunity to pass up on. An oversize pint of Black Sheep later we donned the waterproofs and set off in the rain to get through the last 15 miles to Carlisle. Suddenly it was like Devon again 15% signs all over the place and endless sharp down followed by sharper up. But the fitness is showing now and the legs seem to carry on regardless which is most encouraging for Scotland which we reach early tomorrow morning.

Day Nine 29th May Carlisle to Innerliethen milage: 70 avg sp: 11.8

The day started late. After we had bike cleaning gear from a great bike shop (parish's) in Carlisle we moved out into the sticks. After a little pottering around we crossed the Scottish border. It was raining and up a hill. 'Welcome to Scotland and have a steep wet day.' We reached Langholm for lunch. As we departed with a long way to go and a doubt about rain the clouds departed and it turned into a beautiful day slowly but surely. The rest of the day was climbing. But Scottish climbing is good, the distances are longer and the climbs are shallower. After the arrival of the sun the best part of the day was the 6 mile freewheel into Innerlietren. Edinburgh tomomrow!

Day Ten 30th May Innerliethen to Glenfarg (nr Perth) milage: 68 avg sp: 11.1

After an 'if you can't beat them - join them' night with the pub we were staying in's band we had a slow start to the morning finally rolling onto the tarmac at 10:15. As Richard's parents had kindly bought us dinner (they were passing through after a few days in Ireland) we were well stocked for the 8 mile climb that greeted us to escape Innerlithen. On the descent that followed we made pin cushions of ourselves by speeding through a huge swarm of flies at 35mph. Spectacular views of Edinburgh loomed in the distance and we decided to head for the centre for lunch. By 2:30 we were tucking into pasta with 30 miles under the belts. Leaving the Old Town at 3:30 we were aware we still had a way to go. Queensferry South proved a lovely little village in the shaddow of the road & rail bridges over the Forth. Fizzing along the bridge cycle path we smiled as we were watched with envy by the queuing motorists limited to one lane due to re-surfacing. We had a nasty up and down section up to and out of Dunfirmaline to end the day taking us over to the Loch at Kinross. Having met Robbie (a friend of Richard's) at Kinross we sailed down the hill to Glenfarg and our night's stay at the Bein Inn. Tomorrow the mountains - hopefully more good weather.

Day Eleven 31st May Glenfarg (nr Perth) to Braemar milage: 58 avg sp: 11.1

Set off earlish today anticipating a tough day in the mountains. The theory ran 5 miles down hill into Perth 50 miles up hill to the Spittle of Glenshee and then 5 miles plumet into Braemar. Give or take a mile or two that's how it worked out. The previous days have paid off however and we are now fit as fiddles and apart from the 1 mile 12% climb 'the Devil's Elbow' at the top of the Glenshee ski area there was nothing that had us breaking a sweat. We arrived at the SYHA by 5:00 feeling almost refreshed after a very pleasent days cycling through stunning mountain scenery with the sun beating down on us. Lovely. Right where's the pub.

Day Twelve 1st June Braemar to Grantown on Spey milage: 47 avg sp: 10.8

What a day! We awoke this morning to the pitter patter of full on torrential Scottish rain. The sort of rain that laughs at you as it permiates your Gore Tex. So we packed up slowly hoping it would go away but at 10:00 we left the youth hostel looking like a scene from a chemical disaster movie. Then the hills (Grampian Mountains) started. They are long and they are steep. They are no fun up or down in drivinq rain! At 13:00 we stopped for coffee with whiskey at the ski station at Lieth. After this and an enthralling episode of neigbours (Cathy's leavinq Mike, and there's an oil slick approaching the beach) it was back on with the soggy waterproofs for the final 20 miles. There is nothing worse than putting on already wet waterproofs. Having already climbed three 20% ascents the 12% at Bridge of Brown didn't seem that bad apart from the petrol tanker in front of us which took four attempts to get up and over. After 3 more miles of slightly shallower climbing there was a five mile whizz down the hill into Granton. What a relief the bunkhouse has a shower and a drying room. We are in whiskey country now! Granton beware.

Day Thirteen 2nd June Grantown on Spey to Tain milage: 76 avg sp: 12.2

Managed to be on the road by 9:30 this morning which was good as we had a bigger day mileage wise. The minor lanes between Grantan and Inverness gave us some lovely scenery, but going was tough and we were most pleased with ourselves when we reached Inverness 37 miles in by 1:30. Lunch was taken along with the decision to take a shorter route along the much bussier A9. We crossed our 3rd susspension bridge of the tour to Black Island which is caught between the firths of Moray and Cromaty. It was halfway across the island the we ecountered our first puncture. Not to our bikes but to a lady motorist with 2 older ladies in transit. We did our good Samaritan act and helped them fit the spare. Once over the Cromaty bridge we weaved the final 20 miles through the lanes to Balintore which is beautifully situated overlooking Cromatie. Splendid!

Day Fourteen 3rd June Tain to Altnahara milage: 57 avg sp: 12.3

It had been raining all night. As we ate our cooked breakfast overlooking the Moray Firth the rain stopped and as we cycled through the day apart from a short spell bypassing Tain it managed to avoid us all together! It was a varied day of cycling - a fast flat coastal stretch to Bonar Bridge followed by some forrest & waterfall cycling to Lairg. After this we joined the remote road from Lairg to Tongue. About 12 miles along this extrodinary barren landscape of flat fells (the side wind was vicious) and stark mountains is the wonderfull Crask Inn. Where the cattle farmer runs his Inn as a hobby between his herding. After a premature celebratory pint we flew off down the valley to Altnaharra. So one day to go John O'Groats tomorrow.

Day Fifeteen 4th June Altnahara to John O'Groats milage: 75 avg sp: 13.3

Having spent a great evening at Altnahara thanks to the hospitality of the folks at 1 McCleod Ave we woke up to the rain. An early start was required to give us time to pack up at the end and still fit in a celebration. We cycled the 7 miles along the beautiful Loch Naver before turning north for a 16 mile up & down slog into a north westerly wind to Bettyhill. At Bettyhill we stopped at the post office for a hot pie (or 2. Mark!) before turning backs to the wind to fly the final 50 miles. Boy was it up and down - just like Cornwall. We were so lucky to have a following wind despite the rain. We made great proqress and rolled up to the sign at John O'Groats at 15:30 where we had our photos done, got our route forms stamped and got the beers in! Can't believe we've done it - but we have.... so what's next.